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| Even those who get dizzy at the top of a
step-ladder cannot fail to be enthralled by the exploits
of Mountaineers even if the force that drives people to
what look like near suicidal situations can never be understood
by sane human beings. Surely only spiders can stick to overhanging
and vertical cliffs?
So when was mountaineering invented?
For most British people the mid nineteenth
century saw the prosaically named Albert Smith climb Mont
Blanc in 1851 and Edward Whymper climb The Matterhorn in
1865 and perhaps more importantly both wrote books about
their exploits. The Alps received much attention during
this period and many gentlemen travelled further afield
so that climbing books such as books about the Himalayas
by William Conway appeared as early as 1894. In this Victorian
period the molehills of Great Britain did not receive much
attention or at least much documented attention. |
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Two great climbers, George and Ashley Abrahams
did much to publicise rock-climbing in the UK because in addition
to being proficient rock-climbers they were professional photographers
and their book Rock Climbing in North Wales (1906) is perhaps
the first of a long line of action photo based climbing books.
It's interesting to compare these Tweed-suited gentleman (and
even ladies in crinolines!), equipped with lengths of string
and nailed boots, with their modern brightly-attired descendants
who have every conceivable technological aid, protection device
and modern clothing. Anyone who has repeated some of the climbs
of these pioneers frankly wonders at their nerve. |
| In parallel with the growing interest came
the more formal guidebook as well as the adventure story.
These described the climbs in enough detail to find them
on the mountain but often with the sort of grim humour that
is part of part of rock climbing totally understating some
move that only a seven foot giant with suckers on could
complete without desperate scrabbling, a stream of expletives
and close visions of eternity.
Mountaineering also changed socially from being the preserve
of the gentleman to being a working class pastime perhaps
best exemplified by the climbing revolution brought on by
Joe Brown and Don Whillans in the early sixties and their
high, hard standards of climbing which Joe wrote about in
"The Hard Years" (1967).
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| Everest is the mountain that everyone has
heard of and has generated the most books with "The
Ascent of Everest" by John Hunt (1953) being readily
available. Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing, the first
to the top did not bring out their books until 1955 - Tenzing
with "Man of Everest" and Hillary, "High
Adventure"
In recent times we have the professional climbers who climb
for a living and we have speed climbing on artificial climbing
walls but surely they cannot be compared with being on Tennis
Shoe on the Idwal slabs with driving Welsh rain running
down the rope and down the whole length of one's body to
emerge in soaking wet socks and rock boots! |
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Contributed by Cliff Tomaszewski
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